Phew … last weekend was pretty rough! I’m a board member of Fredrikstad Klatreklubb (local climbing club) and the last couple of weeks we have been busy planning to re-bolt Hankø, one of the biggest (and busiest) crags nearby. Although most of the routes have been climbed and bolted by people from other parts of the country the climbing community believes that our club is “responsible” for the crag. Many of the routes were in bad shape so we had to do something about it. We teamed up with NKF (The climbing association of Norway) and they arranged a “bolt-course” so they could teach us some more about how to bolt.
They started last weekend (when I was in Chicago) and did most of the drilling then. I went out to Hankø to help out last Friday, Saturday and Sunday. On Friday I mostly went around removing old bolts like the one in the picture above. First you fix the rope at the top of the cliff, abseil down while removing the hangers and knocking off the remainder of the bolt with a hammer and then jumaring to the top and move the rope over to the next route. At the end of the day I also glued bolts to a couple of routes so we didn’t have to throw away the rather expensive glue. We used Fixe glue-in bolts like the one in the image below all over the crag.
On Saturday and Sunday I did mostly gluing of bolts in the holes that the guys from NKF had drilled. On Sunday I worked for about 9 hours with a short 30 minute break in the middle. When I finally got home a cold beer tested better than ever!
This was only a re-bolt of the crag and it took quite some time. Kudos to all the people that travels around opening new crags and creating new lines!
We will be going out there next Friday to finish up. Two more routes need bolts and we’ll bring a couple of angle grinders to remove some old bolts that can’t be knocked down. I think I’ll go out there on Thursday as well to fix some ropes to the guys who are going to start early on Friday… I’ll bring my camera and snap some pictures of the place as well!